Field Measurements of a High-Energy Headland Deflection Rip Current: Tidal Modulation, Very Low Frequency Pulsation and Vertical Structure

Damien Sous (1, 2) , Bruno Castelle (3) , Arthur Mouragues (4) , Philippe Bonneton (4)

1 SIAME - Laboratoire des Sciences de l'Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au génie Electrique
2 MIO - Institut méditerranéen d'océanologie
3 UB - Université de Bordeaux
4 EPOC - Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques

Headland rips, sometimes referred to as boundary rips, are rip currents flowing against natural or artificial obstructions extending seaward from the beach, such as headland or groynes. They can be driven either by the deflection of the longshore current against the obstacle or by alongshore variation in breaking wave height due to wave shadowing in the lee of the obstacle. The driving mechanism therefore essentially depends on the angle of wave incidence with respect to the natural or artificial obstruction. We analyze 42 days of velocity profile measurements against a natural headland at the high-energy meso-macrotidal beach of Anglet, southwest France. Measurements were collected in 6.5-10.5-m depth as tide elevation varied, during the autumn-winter period with offshore significant wave height and period ranging 0.9-6 m and 8-16 s, respectively, and the angle of wave incidence ranging from −20 • to 20 •. Here we analyze deflection rip configurations, corresponding to approximately 24 days of measurements, for which the current meter was alternatively located in the rip neck, rip head or away from the rip as wave and tide conditions changed. Deflection rips were associated with large offshore-directed velocities (up to 0.6 m/s depth-averaged velocities) and tide modulation for low-to moderate-energy waves. The vertical profile of deflection rips was found to vary from depth-uniform in the rip neck to strongly depth-varying further offshore in the rip head with maximum velocities near the surface. Very low frequency motions of the rip were dramatic, ranging 10-60 min with a dominant peak period of approximately 40 min, i.e., with longer periods than commonly reported. The strong offshore-directed velocities measured well beyond the surf zone edge provide new insight into deflection rips as a dominant mechanism for water and sediment exchanges between embayed (or structurally-controlled) beaches and the inner-shelf and/or the adjacent embayments.

Mots clés: rip current; headland; current deflection; very low frequency motions; vertical flow structure

Domaines: Océan, Atmosphère

Damien Sous, Bruno Castelle, Arthur Mouragues, Philippe Bonneton. Field Measurements of a High-Energy Headland Deflection Rip Current: Tidal Modulation, Very Low Frequency Pulsation and Vertical Structure. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 2020, 8 (7), pp.534. ⟨10.3390/jmse8070534⟩. ⟨hal-02904053⟩